Prague guide
Three Unhurried Days
Day 1 - The Old Town and the Jewish Quarter
- Morning:the Old Town walking route, starting at 7:30 while the square is empty: the astronomical clock, the tower climb, Týn church, then north into the Jewish Quarter for the synagogues and the Old Cemetery. Remember this only works Sunday to Friday - the Jewish Museum closes Saturday.
- Afternoon:the Charles Bridge, crossed before the mid-morning crowds if your legs are ahead of schedule, then lunch in a neighbourhood pub well away from the square - the denní menu, not the terrace.
- Evening:beer culture proper: tank beer at a local pub, or the five-hundred-year-old dark lager at U Fleků.
Day 2 - The castle side
- Morning:up to Prague Castle for opening - grounds free from 6:00, buildings from 9:00 - for St Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace and Golden Lane, with the noon Changing of the Guard if you time it.
- Afternoon:walk down through Malá Strana: St Nicholas church, the grand Café Savoy or a garden pause, and Strahov's library if you took the hill road.
- Evening:an hour on the Vltava - the evening sightseeing cruises run from the riverside piers - or a concert in a baroque church, of which Prague has more than any city needs and all of them beautiful.
Day 3 - A day out, or a slow one
Either take the hour-long train to Kutná Hora for the ossuary and St Barbara's - book the ossuary ahead - or stay in the city: Vyšehrad's free rock-top grounds in the morning, a long pub lunch, and the Petřín funicular and lookout tower in the afternoon, riding down for a last look over the spires before dinner.
A note on pacing: Prague's centre is smaller than it looks on the map, and the mistake is not missing a sight - it is crossing Charles Bridge for the fourth time before lunch. Go early, go up one tower a day, then go where the locals eat.
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